Frogs are amphibians, animals that spend part of their lives under water and the remainder on land. They have long, powerful jumping legs and a very short backbone. Most Frogs have teeth (in the upper jaws only) but toads do not have any teeth.
Adult Frogs are characterised by long hind legs, a short body, webbed digits, protruding eyes and the absence of a tail. Most Frogs have a semi-aquatic lifestyle, but move easily on land by jumping or climbing. They typically lay their eggs in puddles, ponds or lakes, and their larvae, called tadpoles, have gills and develop in water. Adult Frogs follow a carnivorous diet, mostly of arthropods, annelids and gastropods. Frogs are most noticeable by their call, which can be widely heard during the night or day, mainly in their mating season.
Life cycle: Like all amphibians, Frogs spend their lives near water because they must return to the water to lay their eggs. Frogs eggs are laid in the water. When they hatch into tadpoles, they breathe with gills and swim using a tail. As they mature, they lose their tail, and they develop lungs for breathing air. In harsh climates, Frogs bury themselves in sand and mud and hibernate (sleep very deeply) through the cold winter.
Diet: Frogs eat insects, catching them with their long, sticky tongue. They also eat small fish and worms.
Classification and Evolution: Kingdom Animalia (animals), Phylum Chordata, Class Amphibia (amphibians), Order Anura (Frogs and toads). The first true Frogs evolved during the early Jurassic period, about 200 million years ago (during the time of the dinosaurs).
The distribution of Frogs ranges from tropic to subarctic regions, but most species are found in tropical rainforests. Consisting of more than 5,000 species described, they are among the most diverse groups of vertebrates. However, populations of certain Frogs species are significantly declining.
for:http://www.frogs-house.com
2008年9月17日星期三
2008年9月5日星期五
Deep sea monsters know as Angler fishs
Anglerfishes are famous for their unusual predatory technique. Their first spine have been developed into a fishing pole with a little bate in the end. The fishing pole is actually named “illicium” and the bate is named “esca”. The esca is a fleshy growth found at the end of the illicium. When a predatory fish notices the esca, it thinks that it is a suitable prey. It swims close to the esca, and is rapidly overtaken by the Anglerfish before it gets a change to swallow the esca.
There are more than 200 known species of Anglerfish in the world, and more might be found in the future since a lot of the Angler fish species inhabit great depths far down in the ocean where humans and their research equipment seldom venture. The Anglefish species are not contained in any special family or genera, they are instead spread out over several different families. They do however belong to the same order; Lophiiformes. (The order of the bony fishes.)
Angel fish species are famous for their capability to kill and consume prey that is much larger than them selves. The ambush effect makes it possible for Angelfishes to kill large prey and their adaptable body makes it possible for them to swallow the catch. Their jaws can be distended to accommodate huge prey and their thin and flexible bones make their stomach larger. The stomach of an Angler fish is very stretchy.
As mentioned above, a lot of the Anglerfish species dwell far down in the ocean. They inhabit aphotic zones to where the suns’ light can not penetrate. A normal esca is therefore invisible. The deep living Angler fish species have solved this by entering a symbiotic relationship with a certain type of bacteria than produce light. The bacteria colonise the esca and make it glow in the dark, an example of so called bioluminescence. Bioluminescence is a common feature in deep sea living organisms and other predatory fishes in the aphotic zone will therefore assume that the small esca is a suitable prey. The rest of the Angler fish is dark and can not be detected in the aphotic environment. The light from the esca is not strong enough to illuminate the body of the fish, nor is the light from other bioluminescent organisms. The Angler fish can therefore stay completely hidden and ambush the unsuspecting predatory fish.
Deep sea Angler fish have developed an unusual method of reproduction. Once a male Anglerfish finds a female Anglerfish, he will never leave her. He attaches himself to her body using his sharp teeth and produces an enzyme that gradually allows him access to her blood stream. The two fishes will gradually melt together and the male will not hunt, he will get all the nutrition that he needs from the female Anglerfish. When she is ready to ovulate, the hormone levels in her blood will make the male produce sperm than can fertilize the eggs. In order for this method to be successful, the female Anglerfishes are much larger than the male. When the males have attached themselves to a female, they will actually deteriorate even further. One of the largest found female Anglerfishes was bigger than one yard (more than 90 centimeters). Some female Anglerfishes will allow several males to attach themselves to her.
There are more than 200 known species of Anglerfish in the world, and more might be found in the future since a lot of the Angler fish species inhabit great depths far down in the ocean where humans and their research equipment seldom venture. The Anglefish species are not contained in any special family or genera, they are instead spread out over several different families. They do however belong to the same order; Lophiiformes. (The order of the bony fishes.)
Angel fish species are famous for their capability to kill and consume prey that is much larger than them selves. The ambush effect makes it possible for Angelfishes to kill large prey and their adaptable body makes it possible for them to swallow the catch. Their jaws can be distended to accommodate huge prey and their thin and flexible bones make their stomach larger. The stomach of an Angler fish is very stretchy.
As mentioned above, a lot of the Anglerfish species dwell far down in the ocean. They inhabit aphotic zones to where the suns’ light can not penetrate. A normal esca is therefore invisible. The deep living Angler fish species have solved this by entering a symbiotic relationship with a certain type of bacteria than produce light. The bacteria colonise the esca and make it glow in the dark, an example of so called bioluminescence. Bioluminescence is a common feature in deep sea living organisms and other predatory fishes in the aphotic zone will therefore assume that the small esca is a suitable prey. The rest of the Angler fish is dark and can not be detected in the aphotic environment. The light from the esca is not strong enough to illuminate the body of the fish, nor is the light from other bioluminescent organisms. The Angler fish can therefore stay completely hidden and ambush the unsuspecting predatory fish.
Deep sea Angler fish have developed an unusual method of reproduction. Once a male Anglerfish finds a female Anglerfish, he will never leave her. He attaches himself to her body using his sharp teeth and produces an enzyme that gradually allows him access to her blood stream. The two fishes will gradually melt together and the male will not hunt, he will get all the nutrition that he needs from the female Anglerfish. When she is ready to ovulate, the hormone levels in her blood will make the male produce sperm than can fertilize the eggs. In order for this method to be successful, the female Anglerfishes are much larger than the male. When the males have attached themselves to a female, they will actually deteriorate even further. One of the largest found female Anglerfishes was bigger than one yard (more than 90 centimeters). Some female Anglerfishes will allow several males to attach themselves to her.
2008年9月1日星期一
A Few Points About Wren House Plans
Today we are going to discuss Wren house plans.
It seems that everyone loves song birds. Even the most notoriously disruptive minds in history, such as Ghengis Kahn, Adolf Hitler, and Idi Amin simply MUST have liked the sound of birds chirruping like little cherubs out on tree branches during the morning. One of the most cherished of song birds is the wren, and so the subject of our article here is about Wren house plans.
If one wants to hear wrens singing away each morning, one can capture a few of these birds and subject them to a life of captivity and possible misery. A better option is to build a bird house specifically for these angelic-voiced creatures. To do this, one requires wren house plans.Wren house plans are the basic diagrams for building a bird house for one of humanity's great sirens of song. These plans are quite specific to attracting this specific species (though admittedly, sometimes chickadees and other small birds will also pop in from time to time). The more the merrier!
To get the most out of your bird house, you must get the wren house plans with the most goodies. Carefully select the option you feel will be best for your bird house. While many such plans are readily available online for little or no cost, some of the features can be added on. If this seems too difficult, there are wren house plans that can be purchased that are sure to accommodate the best features. These features include easy-access hinged doors, lightweight construction materials, decently-sized compartments, individual porches, and insulated attics.
A little explanation of each of these is in order. First, having doors that are hinged will allow for easy access for purposes of inspecting nests for eggs or simple human curiosity/snooping. Lightweight materials are important in construction as they reduce the chances of a house falling off a pole in a storm or stiff breeze. Compartments of a relatively large size (usually about 6x6x12 inches is a good amount) will keep the occupants comfortable without allowing larger fowl in. Lastly, an insulated attic simply makes for greater warmth, and who doesn't like to be warm, including wrens.
The singing of Wrens is delightful to the ear and you will have much joy with your bird houses.
It seems that everyone loves song birds. Even the most notoriously disruptive minds in history, such as Ghengis Kahn, Adolf Hitler, and Idi Amin simply MUST have liked the sound of birds chirruping like little cherubs out on tree branches during the morning. One of the most cherished of song birds is the wren, and so the subject of our article here is about Wren house plans.
If one wants to hear wrens singing away each morning, one can capture a few of these birds and subject them to a life of captivity and possible misery. A better option is to build a bird house specifically for these angelic-voiced creatures. To do this, one requires wren house plans.Wren house plans are the basic diagrams for building a bird house for one of humanity's great sirens of song. These plans are quite specific to attracting this specific species (though admittedly, sometimes chickadees and other small birds will also pop in from time to time). The more the merrier!
To get the most out of your bird house, you must get the wren house plans with the most goodies. Carefully select the option you feel will be best for your bird house. While many such plans are readily available online for little or no cost, some of the features can be added on. If this seems too difficult, there are wren house plans that can be purchased that are sure to accommodate the best features. These features include easy-access hinged doors, lightweight construction materials, decently-sized compartments, individual porches, and insulated attics.
A little explanation of each of these is in order. First, having doors that are hinged will allow for easy access for purposes of inspecting nests for eggs or simple human curiosity/snooping. Lightweight materials are important in construction as they reduce the chances of a house falling off a pole in a storm or stiff breeze. Compartments of a relatively large size (usually about 6x6x12 inches is a good amount) will keep the occupants comfortable without allowing larger fowl in. Lastly, an insulated attic simply makes for greater warmth, and who doesn't like to be warm, including wrens.
The singing of Wrens is delightful to the ear and you will have much joy with your bird houses.
2008年8月24日星期日
Do You Really Need Insurance for Your Pet Cat?
Since cats are such independent creatures, many people don't think of getting pet insurance for them. This is especially true if the cat is kept indoors because they are not as likely to get run over by a car.
The truth is that there are many potential health problems that will require a veterinarian's care. Insurance will help pay for some of the costs related to those health issues.
The costs that can become expensive begin when you first get your kitty and continue until it becomes an oldster.
One problem that can be prevented before it gets to the point of your pet needing surgery is hairballs. By simply giving a food that contains a hairball additive or by feeding an over-the-counter hairball remedy, you can prevent expensive surgery. Pet insurance will certainly help if your cat has gone past the preventative stage.
Kidney failure is another disease that cats are prone to. Senior cats are most likely to have this ailment. Vet bills can be astronomical in these cases.
Urinary tract infections are also common. Symptoms are varied. They will cry when going to the bathroom, or they "miss" the litter box. Treatment usually depends upon the type of urinary tract infection that they have. A veterinarian will have to do tests and kitty will need to be put on antibiotics.
Your cat could also develop upper respiratory problems, especially if they were gotten from the humane society. Symptoms are, coughing, sneezing, runny nose and eye weeping. If you have more than one cat, isolate the sick cat from other cats. Again, kitty will need veterinary care and most likely antibiotics.
Many cats are also prone to developing diabetes. This is when pet health insurance really comes in handy. Diabetes is an extremely expensive cat disease.
Then, there are cat allergies. No, not your allergy to your cat but your cat's allergy to things it breathes or comes into contact with. He or she can become allergic to the dust of their litter box litter, air fresheners, dust, household cleaners or other airborne particles.
A cat with allergies can't be treated with over-the-counter medicines. They must be treated by a vet who can test kitty to get to the cause of the allergy.
Other medical problems that cats can get are parasites, liver disease, infections, cancers, poisonings and pancreatitis. Blood tests will have to be done to find out what problems your cat may have that are causing its symptoms. Take your cat to the veterinarian immediately if it suffers from abdominal pain, elevated heart rate or high fever.
Any cat that is sick should be encouraged to drink water. Water will help wash out any toxins that your cat may have gotten into. It will also lower a high fever. Sometimes, just giving a cat water will help flush its kidneys and reduce the amount of treatment it must receive from a vet.
As you can see, cats can develop many of the same diseases that humans can. And they can be nearly as expensive to cure. Pet insurance can help alleviate some of the expenses associated with all of this veterinarian care.
The truth is that there are many potential health problems that will require a veterinarian's care. Insurance will help pay for some of the costs related to those health issues.
The costs that can become expensive begin when you first get your kitty and continue until it becomes an oldster.
One problem that can be prevented before it gets to the point of your pet needing surgery is hairballs. By simply giving a food that contains a hairball additive or by feeding an over-the-counter hairball remedy, you can prevent expensive surgery. Pet insurance will certainly help if your cat has gone past the preventative stage.
Kidney failure is another disease that cats are prone to. Senior cats are most likely to have this ailment. Vet bills can be astronomical in these cases.
Urinary tract infections are also common. Symptoms are varied. They will cry when going to the bathroom, or they "miss" the litter box. Treatment usually depends upon the type of urinary tract infection that they have. A veterinarian will have to do tests and kitty will need to be put on antibiotics.
Your cat could also develop upper respiratory problems, especially if they were gotten from the humane society. Symptoms are, coughing, sneezing, runny nose and eye weeping. If you have more than one cat, isolate the sick cat from other cats. Again, kitty will need veterinary care and most likely antibiotics.
Many cats are also prone to developing diabetes. This is when pet health insurance really comes in handy. Diabetes is an extremely expensive cat disease.
Then, there are cat allergies. No, not your allergy to your cat but your cat's allergy to things it breathes or comes into contact with. He or she can become allergic to the dust of their litter box litter, air fresheners, dust, household cleaners or other airborne particles.
A cat with allergies can't be treated with over-the-counter medicines. They must be treated by a vet who can test kitty to get to the cause of the allergy.
Other medical problems that cats can get are parasites, liver disease, infections, cancers, poisonings and pancreatitis. Blood tests will have to be done to find out what problems your cat may have that are causing its symptoms. Take your cat to the veterinarian immediately if it suffers from abdominal pain, elevated heart rate or high fever.
Any cat that is sick should be encouraged to drink water. Water will help wash out any toxins that your cat may have gotten into. It will also lower a high fever. Sometimes, just giving a cat water will help flush its kidneys and reduce the amount of treatment it must receive from a vet.
As you can see, cats can develop many of the same diseases that humans can. And they can be nearly as expensive to cure. Pet insurance can help alleviate some of the expenses associated with all of this veterinarian care.
2008年8月19日星期二
The Loyal Working Companion Dog: American Pit Bull Terrier
This kind of dog is known for its aggressiveness to other dogs but as a pet they will be your companion. These dogs are well known for their intelligence and loyalty and are also very protective of their owners. Many people mistake them for staffies, which is short for Staffordshire terrier but this is not a staffie. An American pit bull terrier is a mix of two dogs, a terrier and bulldog. They are of their own kind and cannot and should not be referred to as staffies. I have seen the UKC shows and I have never seen a pit bull on it.
These are some things that the owner may want to know about pit bulls. They are classified as terriers by the kennel organizations, hence the full name, American Pit Bull Terrier. They are equally happy indoors or outdoors, although we tend to keep ours indoors the majority of the time because they love being around us. They are very social dogs and will go bonkers if you don't give them a lot of attention.
These are also short haired dogs with coats that are shiny and smooth although they do come in a great variety of colors. We currently have a female that is black with a white chest and nose and another that is the desired red nose variety that is red all over. He also has golden eyes and is one of the most beautiful pits I have ever seen.
American Pit Bull Terriers vary greatly in size as well. The dog that my son has is only around 45 pounds while his father was about 90 pounds. They range from thirty to over one hundred pounds depending on their lineage and are usually from 18 to 24 inches tall although I have seen some larger.
As with any dog they should be bathed on a regular basis to keep them clean and free of irritants. You should also brush them twice a month and rub them down with a towel or rag to shake off loose hair. Also be sure that they get plenty of exercise so that they will sleep well at night. If you are exercising them in public always keep them on a leash to avoid any accidents.
Due to their fierce loyalty and protectiveness it is best that you socialize the animals with as many people and other animals as possible when they are young. If you do this you will avoid the problems that many people have with them when they are older. I have had several and none of them have been aggressive. It is all in how you raise them.
These are some things that the owner may want to know about pit bulls. They are classified as terriers by the kennel organizations, hence the full name, American Pit Bull Terrier. They are equally happy indoors or outdoors, although we tend to keep ours indoors the majority of the time because they love being around us. They are very social dogs and will go bonkers if you don't give them a lot of attention.
These are also short haired dogs with coats that are shiny and smooth although they do come in a great variety of colors. We currently have a female that is black with a white chest and nose and another that is the desired red nose variety that is red all over. He also has golden eyes and is one of the most beautiful pits I have ever seen.
American Pit Bull Terriers vary greatly in size as well. The dog that my son has is only around 45 pounds while his father was about 90 pounds. They range from thirty to over one hundred pounds depending on their lineage and are usually from 18 to 24 inches tall although I have seen some larger.
As with any dog they should be bathed on a regular basis to keep them clean and free of irritants. You should also brush them twice a month and rub them down with a towel or rag to shake off loose hair. Also be sure that they get plenty of exercise so that they will sleep well at night. If you are exercising them in public always keep them on a leash to avoid any accidents.
Due to their fierce loyalty and protectiveness it is best that you socialize the animals with as many people and other animals as possible when they are young. If you do this you will avoid the problems that many people have with them when they are older. I have had several and none of them have been aggressive. It is all in how you raise them.
2008年8月12日星期二
Solving Problem Puppy Behaviors
If you have ever had a puppy you know that there will be some problem behaviors that have to be corrected. These are always much easier to nip them in the bud while they are young rather than trying to break the bad habits as they grow older.
Jumping up on people is one of the problem behaviors that lots of people inadvertently encourage by mistake. It is cute when it is a small puppy that is jumping and all excited to see you. It makes you feel good that your new puppy has this much affection for you.
While this may be cute on a little puppy when they grow into a large dog it can be quite dangerous for a child or even an adult.
To stop this behavior place the puppy down on its feet gently as soon as it jumps up. Once your puppy remains still for a bit praise them extensively.
It is also helpful to give the puppy an alternative to jumping such as giving you his paw. This allows them to get your attention in a positive way.
Another problem that is much easier addressed earlier than later is teaching your puppy not to pull on the leash. It is definitely much easier to control and train a 10 pound puppy than a 100 pound dog.
The first thing that needs to be taught in any training of a puppy is to heel or walk by you on a loose leash rather pulling and tugging. This is much easier to do by employing a head collaror training collar.
To start just start walking and anytime your puppy decides to charge ahead just change direction and allow some slack as soon as the puppy changes direction to follow you. It is important that you don't allow the puppy to pull at the lash and try to hold them back as this will teach them the wrong lesson.
Once your puppy understands the heel command you can then consider further training.
Jumping up on people is one of the problem behaviors that lots of people inadvertently encourage by mistake. It is cute when it is a small puppy that is jumping and all excited to see you. It makes you feel good that your new puppy has this much affection for you.
While this may be cute on a little puppy when they grow into a large dog it can be quite dangerous for a child or even an adult.
To stop this behavior place the puppy down on its feet gently as soon as it jumps up. Once your puppy remains still for a bit praise them extensively.
It is also helpful to give the puppy an alternative to jumping such as giving you his paw. This allows them to get your attention in a positive way.
Another problem that is much easier addressed earlier than later is teaching your puppy not to pull on the leash. It is definitely much easier to control and train a 10 pound puppy than a 100 pound dog.
The first thing that needs to be taught in any training of a puppy is to heel or walk by you on a loose leash rather pulling and tugging. This is much easier to do by employing a head collaror training collar.
To start just start walking and anytime your puppy decides to charge ahead just change direction and allow some slack as soon as the puppy changes direction to follow you. It is important that you don't allow the puppy to pull at the lash and try to hold them back as this will teach them the wrong lesson.
Once your puppy understands the heel command you can then consider further training.
2008年8月11日星期一
Training Your Dog To Drop At A Distance
Before you attempt to make your dog drop at a distance, teach her first to drop directly in front of you on the first command and on the first signal.
With the dog on leash, facing you, hold the leash in your left hand (it is presumed, of course, that your dog already knows how to lie down as outlined in The Complete Novice Obedience Course). without moving your body, command "Down!"
Use a quiet tone of voice and follow the command with "Good Girl!" The praise is important! It encourages the dog to obey without leash correction. If one is necessary, it will be more favorably received.
If your dog obeys the first command to lie down, go to your right, circle around in back, and while she is in the down position, pat her. If the command is ignored, quickly stamp on the leash with your right foot to get her down, giving extra praise.
Circle around, pat her, but don't let her get up until you give her permission. With a small dog, or one that is extra sensitive, tap the leash more gently.
After your dog lies down on voice command, tell her "Sit!" This time raise your right hand (this is the signal used by right-handed people to make the dog lie down) and follow the signal with "Good Girl!" If your dog isn't down by the time your hand is raised with fingers pointing UP, stamp on the leash or bump the palm of the raised hand against the dog's nose, with extra praise.
Say "down!" at the same time, then circle around to heel position and pat her while she is lying down. The important things to remember are these: Give the command without body motion; when you use the signal, raise your hand, wait, then make the correction; and whether you use your hand or your foot to get your dog down, give praise!
The way you give the signal is also important. Lift your hand quickly, then lower it slowly while the dog is in the process of going down. If you drop the hand too fast, it will look like the signal to come and your dog could be confused.
When your dog will lie down immediately on a single command, and will do the same when you give the signal, try it without the leash, but stay close to your dog. Give the command or signal once, then follow with praise. The praise can be dropped after the dog has learned to react immediately, but during the teaching, praise should accompany the voice and the hand gesture.
When the leash is off, and the command or signal is ignored, the bump on the nose is an effective correction. Return to heel position each time your dog goes down; pat her or give her a tasty morsel so she will associate something pleasant with the prone position.
Gradually increase the distance you stand away, but only if your dog will drop immediately, on a single command or signal, a distance equal to the length of the leash. With the dog some distance away, the voice now becomes the correction. When the command or signal is ignored, give the second command demandingly.
The ultimate goal for the drop in the distance should be twenty-five to thirty feet, to prepare your dog for drop on recall.
If you still have trouble making your dog lie down at a distance, fasten a long line to her collar and run the line through a ring in the floor, or one placed in the ground. Ask an assistant to hold the end of the line at a distance (or hold the line yourself). Tell your dog "Stay!" Face her, then give the signal or the command to lie down. If she remains sitting, the pull on the line will put her down. Return, make her sit, and give her praise.
With the dog on leash, facing you, hold the leash in your left hand (it is presumed, of course, that your dog already knows how to lie down as outlined in The Complete Novice Obedience Course). without moving your body, command "Down!"
Use a quiet tone of voice and follow the command with "Good Girl!" The praise is important! It encourages the dog to obey without leash correction. If one is necessary, it will be more favorably received.
If your dog obeys the first command to lie down, go to your right, circle around in back, and while she is in the down position, pat her. If the command is ignored, quickly stamp on the leash with your right foot to get her down, giving extra praise.
Circle around, pat her, but don't let her get up until you give her permission. With a small dog, or one that is extra sensitive, tap the leash more gently.
After your dog lies down on voice command, tell her "Sit!" This time raise your right hand (this is the signal used by right-handed people to make the dog lie down) and follow the signal with "Good Girl!" If your dog isn't down by the time your hand is raised with fingers pointing UP, stamp on the leash or bump the palm of the raised hand against the dog's nose, with extra praise.
Say "down!" at the same time, then circle around to heel position and pat her while she is lying down. The important things to remember are these: Give the command without body motion; when you use the signal, raise your hand, wait, then make the correction; and whether you use your hand or your foot to get your dog down, give praise!
The way you give the signal is also important. Lift your hand quickly, then lower it slowly while the dog is in the process of going down. If you drop the hand too fast, it will look like the signal to come and your dog could be confused.
When your dog will lie down immediately on a single command, and will do the same when you give the signal, try it without the leash, but stay close to your dog. Give the command or signal once, then follow with praise. The praise can be dropped after the dog has learned to react immediately, but during the teaching, praise should accompany the voice and the hand gesture.
When the leash is off, and the command or signal is ignored, the bump on the nose is an effective correction. Return to heel position each time your dog goes down; pat her or give her a tasty morsel so she will associate something pleasant with the prone position.
Gradually increase the distance you stand away, but only if your dog will drop immediately, on a single command or signal, a distance equal to the length of the leash. With the dog some distance away, the voice now becomes the correction. When the command or signal is ignored, give the second command demandingly.
The ultimate goal for the drop in the distance should be twenty-five to thirty feet, to prepare your dog for drop on recall.
If you still have trouble making your dog lie down at a distance, fasten a long line to her collar and run the line through a ring in the floor, or one placed in the ground. Ask an assistant to hold the end of the line at a distance (or hold the line yourself). Tell your dog "Stay!" Face her, then give the signal or the command to lie down. If she remains sitting, the pull on the line will put her down. Return, make her sit, and give her praise.
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